By boat through the Okavango Delta
Before we start the boat trip, boatman Zeero explains the rules to us. No hands or feet in the water and no leaning out of the boat, because it is teeming with crocodiles and hippos, no loud noises, not getting up in the boat except Zero allows us to and generally to be prepared that we should always expect the unexpected in the wilderness. „Expect the unexpected“ really seems to be a mantra in the bush and I’ll say this: we already had a lot of experience with unexpected things yesterday. That’s all I need.
First we cruise slowly through the densely overgrown canals and learn interesting things about the water in the delta. If it looks a little reddish like this, the tide is expected. Usually this is more likely the case in July, but this year it seems to be starting earlier. A sign of climate change as Zero says.
Shortly afterwards we come to a relatively open area in the delta and see 3 hippos lying in the water far away. Shortly thereafter, the boat engine dies because of overheating. First it beeps terribly loud and then silence reigns. So much to no loud noises in the delta. Fortunately Zero stays calm and has the machine under control again a short time later. With a rather due distance of about 50 meters we let our boat rock in the water and move into our observation post.
The deep grunting sounds are more than impressive. And if I think about it, the animals couldn’t have been much further away from our tent at night. I notice a slight shower running down my back. Damned 50 meters away from our tent the hippo stood, while Mirko snored at half the delta. Actually it’s a miracle that they dared to get so close at all or maybe they came to see who produces this terrible noises.
After about 10 minutes at least one hippo is fed up with us. With an angry puff it rears up for a moment and then disappears lightning fast under the water surface and approaches us at the speed of a train. The only thing we can still see of him is a huge wave that pushes it in front of while running under water and that is more than threatening for my taste.
Suddenly Zero becomes hectic. In no time at all, he tampered with the engine, which unfortunately has small misfires again due to overheating. When it finally starts after 2 attempts, the hippo is already dangerously close to us and you can almost hear how Zero breathes a sigh of relief! Panicked I stare at the approaching wave and pray that the hippo won’t catch us. The critters are simply extremely dangerous and even like to ram the boats if they don’t like them. And meeting a hippo underwater is really the last thing I want for my holiday. Meanwhile Zero races away at a speed like a rocket and fortunately we are far enough away when the Hippo emerges from the water. It looks pretty angry, by the way. To be on the safe side, we drive a few hundred meters further on before the engine gives up again.
Note: When the guide gets hectic in the bush, it is time to say your last prayer.
In the next half hour we learn exciting things about Zero’s tribe. Well, somehow he has to entertain the Europeans on the unfit boat if he wants to prevent a major panic.
If a man wants to propose to a woman, the man makes a necklace out of a water lily and hangs it in front of the woman’s front door. If the woman takes the lily off and takes it in with her, she does not accept the request. But if she wears it around her neck instead, that is a sign that she accepts. Of course Zero shows us the whole thing professionally and gives us the water lily necklace as a souvenir. Fortunately, however, without an official proposal.
Before the next safari I will hang it on the car mirror like the Asians do for good karma. Maybe it’ll help with the next mud hole. It certainly can’t do any harm.
On the way back to the starting point the engine dies another 4 times and we have to wait patiently another half an hour before it has cooled down again and can continue driving. At least we can use the time for extensive bird watching. We even see an osprey, a rather majestic bird sitting on a tree and watching us suspiciously.
We also get to know the Jesus bird, the only bird that is so light that it can walk over the plants on the water surface without sinking. A very fitting name, I think.
Since the beeping on the engine just won’t stop, we have no choice but to close our eyes and drive the last few kilometres to the jetty. In my mind’s eye I already see all 5 of us swimming through the Okavango Delta, followed by a whole horde of crocodiles and hippos and screaming wildly for help, which of course does not come. After all, we are at least 100 kilometres outside every civilization deep in the bush. Probably the most important thing for Mirko will be that the camera stays afloat.
Thank God, we arrive at the shore after about 10 minutes, accompanied by deafening beeps. We are not where we started, but at the other end of the campsite. Also not bad, the rest we can walk and Zero can ask in the small tent camp for spare oil for his engine.
When we have breakfast in the next half hour, we see Zero running around 3 times. Probably the boat engine had its last trip today. Lucky we made it to the shore.
Next: Moremi Game Reserve: Breakdowns and stupid questions